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If you do wish to publish a specific set of numbers generated by this tool the author would appreciate credit with a link to this page, but this is not required.

If you build crosses with this design, you may freely sell or otherwise distribute the finished product as you see fit.

Find recent content on the main index or look in the archives to find all content. Saint Andrews Cross Calculator. Javascript required Sorry, but this calculator requires JavaScript to be enabled.

Error loading calculator! Leave a comment. Currently unavailable. Contact me with general inquiries. Technical Details Material Wood. See questions and answers.

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English Choose a language for shopping. Amazon Music Stream millions of songs. For other board widths, you'll need to adjust the cuts lengths accordingly.

The piece removed in the initial angle cut forms another triangle which we can use to calculate the actual cross-section of the boards for adjusting other lengths.

The unknown length X is the hypotenuse. The same width applies for shortening both the horizontal bars as well as the legs where the horizontals overlap.

For all the lengths quoted below, the following system of angles, lengths, and lumber will be used as a basis:. The angle of the arms to the ground is Building the cross requires a total of 10 pieces of wood excluding the optional tripod stand.

Of these pieces, there should be five pairs of identical cuts. Most of the variation in the remaining pieces comes in the two cut angles and whether the piece is on the "top" or "bottom" of the cross' criss-cross pattern.

Note that while some of the pieces are physically interchangeable in terms of length and cut angles, it's still preferable to cut the pieces specifically for their intended position in the finished piece in order to ensure the "good" side of the lumber used is always facing outwards.

For the first cuts, start with the long arms of the cross. All four ends of these boards will be cut to a The direction of the angled cuts must be such that when the boards are joined in the middle in an 'X', the angled cuts lie flat on the floor not with a point touching the groups and the tops are parallel to the ceiling.

For the cross arm boards, the angles should both go the same direction:. When you select the direction for cuts, ensure that when the boards are crossed the "good" sides of each board will be opposite each other -- that is pointing away from the point where the boards touch in the middle.

The other side of each board will be covered with a smaller laminated piece, so placing the "bad" side of the lumber at the inside of the intersection ensures it won't be visible in the final piece.

To start, set a miter saw to Just snip off the minimal amount to leave a cut the full width of the board.

If you're using a miter saw especially if it has a laser guide , this single center point may be enough to make the cut. The two angled cuts should run the same direction, so you'll slide the board straight down through your saw as you position it for the second cut.

For the shorter cross arm, repeat the same procedure with the shorter You should flip this board before making any cuts so the "good" side is pointed the opposite direction from the first board so that both "bad" sides will be inside when the boards are finally put together.

Next up, you'll need to cut the four shorter pieces which will laminate with the two arms to give a stiffer final product. Each of the boards will cover one half the length of one arm.

Like the longer arms, the total lengths each pair of boards will be the same as the cross arms, but parts of that length are "cut out" by the overlapping pattern of the cross.

Remember to cut the boards so that the good sides are out when the boards are glued together. These all have Two of these boards should be the length of A or Again, the angles are cut to The tolerances on the various glued angles are relatively tight, so you'll want to lay everything out dry on a nice flat surface before gluing anything.

It pretty much only works one way, so make sure all the points where pieces meets are perfectly tight before you glue anything.

If you need to make adjustments, this is your only chance. If you have enough clamps, clamping everything together dry, then unclamping, glueing, and reclamping one piece at a time will give the quickest, best results.

The order pieces are glued together doesn't much matter, so do whatever seems to work the best for you.

As more of the pieces get locked together, you should see the rest of the parts start fitting only one way. Once all the glue has set, you should drill the boards at the corners and the middle if you didn't already before you glued , and fit eye bolts with a washer on either side to each corner and a carriage bolt or two in the middle to hold the cross arms together.

At this point, the cross is structurally complete and could be used leaned or preferably attached via chain or rope to a wall or ceiling.

To finish your cross, you'll need to sand and apply some sort of coating. Depending on the quality of the wood used and your tastes, you could either use an opaque paint in any color you like or apply a clear or tinted urethane to allow the natural wood grain to show through.

Once the basic cross is completed, numerous options exist to customize it to your own tastes and uses. The basic cross contains four-point attachment at the corners to hold the cross together.

Leather or nylon straps might be attached to the cross to strap the submissive down at various points along their body.

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